HPLC–DAD/ELSD Phytochemical Profiling of French Plant Species for the Discovery of Natural Cosmetic Ingredients

As a response to increasing demand for including innovative natural ingredients in cosmetic manufacturing, researchers from the Université Côte d'Azur (Nice, France), the Shiseido Europe Innovation Center (Ormes, France), Futura Gaia Technologies (Rodilhan, France) and the Université Artois (Lille, France) offered a structured approach to identifying bioactive plant species available in France. The dry extracts (DEs) from 1614 plant species were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)–diode array detector (DAD)/evaporative light scattering detector (ELSD) for the generation of phytochemical fingerprints, facilitating comparative metabolomic profiling to determine regulatory acceptability and innovation potential. A paper based on their research was published in Chemistry & Biodiversity (1)

Shifts in the behavior of cosmetics purchasers has generated an increasing interest in products which include natural ingredients (2). However, consumers remain highly demanding regarding product performance (3). In this context, plants, therefore, have emerged as an essential source in the development of natural active ingredients in skincare, offering solutions for needs such as hydration, sun protection, anti-aging, and skin brightening (2).

There are currently approximately 350000 identified plant species, each producing compounds with varied chemical structures and biological activities that play critical roles in survival and reproduction (4). The process of integrating appropriate plant-based compounds into cosmetic formulations, however, involves the navigation of numerous constraints specific to this sector. Beyond scientific validation and economic feasibility, ingredient selection must consider formulation compatibility, supply chain sustainability, and strict regulatory compliance across international markets (5). The plant selection process carried out by the research team was conceived to comply with existing global cosmetic regulations, with the objective of identifying ingredients that could be successfully developed and commercialized worldwide (1).

Of the 1614 plants that were both subjected to analysis and authorized in Chinese cosmetic regulations, 18 species were retained for further evaluation based on their regulatory compatibility and cosmetic potential within a global development framework. After that evaluation process, four standout species emerged: the leaves of old-man's-beard (C. vitalba), the buds of the service tree (C. domestica), the leaves of common hazel (C. avellana), and the aerial parts of cowslip primrose (P. veris). These plants are widely present in France and show promising biological activities, which position them as resources for the development of effective, natural cosmetic ingredients (1).

The study additionally stresses the innovation potential using modern cultivation methods for enhancing plant quality and bioactivity. A complementary investigation concentrating on B. officinalis, a species that displayed minimal bioactivity at first, but, after cultivation under controlled conditions using rotational cultivation at reduced temperatures, displayed significant improvements in its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential. These findings highlight the possibilities of innovative agricultural practices for improving the metabolic expression and cosmetic relevance of well-known or underexploited plant species, which might possibly expand the range of practical candidates for cosmetic development (1).

Furthermore, while chromatographic profiling by HPLC–DAD/ELSD proved useful for rapid and comparative screening, the researchers are of the opinion that the technique does not allow for the identification of individual bioactive metabolites. They state that future applications should therefore benefit from the integration of complementary techniques such as LC–(HR)MS and bio-guided fractionation, which would provide a more precise characterization of active compounds and further strengthen the link between phytochemical fingerprints and biological effects (1).

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References

1. Viéytez, M.; Robert-Hazotte, A.; Thomas, A. et al. A Workflow for Selecting, Profiling, and Optimizing Plant Extracts for Cosmetic Applications. Chem. Biodivers. 2025, e02397. DOI: 10.1002/cbdv.202502397
2. Mansoor, K.: Aburjai, T.; Al-Mamoori, F. et al. Plants with Cosmetic Uses. Phytother. Res. 2023, 37 (12), 5755-5768. DOI: 10.1002/ptr.8019
3. Mintel Consulting, Mintel Announces Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends 2024. Mintel Consulting, 2024.
4. Antonelli, A.; Fry, C.; Smith, R. J. et al., State of the World's Plants and Fungi, 2023. Royal Botanic Gardens, 2023.
5. Lavoine-Hanneguelle, S.; Périchet, C.; Schnaebele, N. et al. Development of New Natural Extracts. Chem. Biodivers. 2014, 11 (11), 1798-820. DOI: 10.1002/cbdv.201400026