News|Articles|October 2, 2025

Researchers Use GC-MS to Explore Patchouli Oil for Hair Care

Author(s)John Chasse
Fact checked by: Caroline Hroncich
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Key Takeaways

  • Patchouli oil, particularly its fractionated form (LFPO), shows potential in promoting hair growth and controlling dandruff caused by Malassezia globosa.
  • LFPO formulations exhibited stable physicochemical properties, with the 1.5% concentration demonstrating superior antifungal activity compared to ketoconazole.
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Researchers evaluated hair care formulations containing 0.5–1.5% fractionated patchouli oil (LFPO) for antidandruff activity against M. globosa and hair growth effects in male rabbits. LFPO, derived from crude patchouli oil (CPO), was characterized using GC-MS to enhance efficacy.

Hair loss and dandruff remain significant challenges in hair care. Patchouli oil has emerged as a promising solution due to its high content of bioactive compounds. Researchers from Indonesian institutions explored the multifunctional potential of fractionated patchouli oil in hair care formulations aimed at promoting hair growth and controlling dandruff caused by the yeast Malassezia globosa. Crude patchouli oil (CPO) was fractionated to enhance its efficacy, yielding light fraction patchouli oil (LFPO), which was characterized using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Hair tonic formulations containing three different LFPO concentrations (0.5%, 1.0%, and 1.5%) were developed and assessed for stability, pH, viscosity, and antifungal activity against M. globosa. Their findings were published in the journal narra j (1).

Hair is susceptible to various infectious conditions (2-5), particularly from Malassezia globosa, which is associated with dandruff in both humans and animals (6-8). Malassezia spp. naturally inhabits the human scalp, and its interaction with the bacteria Staphylococcus spp., which breaks down sebum, stimulates the production of dandruff as well as the appearance of seborrheic dermatitis (9-11).

Commonly used in products such as creams, lotions, soaps, and perfumes, patchouli oils act as a strong fixative and natural insect repellent (12,13). Alcohol produced from patchouli has been shown to have antimicrobial effects against various pathogenic bacteria (14). Although a study demonstrated its antifungal activity against Penicillium digitatum (15), research conducted regarding its antifungal properties remains limited, particularly studies on the antifungal effects of fractionated patchouli oil derived from CPO against Malassezia sp. and its potential to promote hair growth (1).

The results of this study showed that LFPO contained 2.51% acid number, 0.70% ester number, 0.71 mg/kg iron content, and 25.88% patchoulol. The formulations exhibited stable physicochemical properties, with pH levels of 5.36-5.51 and viscosity ranging from 3.94 to 4.08 centipoise (cP), suitable for hair tonic applications. Formulation of 1.5% LFPO demonstrated the strongest antifungal activity, producing a 31.18±1.37 mm inhibition zone against M. globosa, surpassing ketoconazole (21.72±0.28 mm), suggesting potential as a natural antifungal agent. Histological analysis in rabbits revealed that 1.5% LFPO formulation reduced epidermal cell shedding, increased hair length by 41.6±0.35 mm after six weeks and promoted dense hair follicle growth (1).

The researchers suggest that these findings provide a solid foundation for developing natural, effective, and stable hair care formulations. While the results are promising, they emphasize that the efficacy and safety of LFPO formulations in humans have not yet been evaluated. Accordingly, they recommend conducting clinical trials to assess skin tolerance, potential irritation, and long-term effects under real-world conditions (1).

References

  1. Isnaini, N.; Muhammad, S.; Prajaputra, V. et al. Hybrid Function of Light Fraction Patchouli Oil in Hair Care Formulations for Effective Hair and Anti-Dandruff Treatment. Narra J. 2025, 5 (2), e1314. DOI: 10.52225/narra.v5i2.1622
  2. Pereira-Silva, M.; Martins, A. M.; Sousa-Oliveira, I, et al. Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment. Acta Biomater. 2022, 142, 14-35. DOI: 10.1016/j.actbio.2022.02.025
  3. Rhimi, W.; Theelen, B.; Boekhout, T, et al. Conventional Therapy and New Antifungal Drugs Against Malassezia Infections. Med. Mycol. 2021, 59 (3), 215-234. DOI: 10.1093/mmy/myaa087
  4. Rathie, B.; Theelen, B.; Laurence, M. et al. Antimicrobial Susceptibility Testing for Three Malassezia Species. Microbiol. Spectr. 2023, 11 (4), e0507622. DOI: 10.1128/spectrum.05076-22
  5. Hadrich, I.; Khemakhem, N.; Ilahi, A, et al. Genotypic Analysis of the Population Structure in Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restricta. J. Fungi 2023, 9 (2), 263. DOI: 10.3390/jof9020263
  6. Sharma, P.; Rana, T. Fungal Diseases of Goats. In; Principles of Goat Disease and Prevention; T. Rana, Ed. Wiley; 2023
  7. Sibi, D.; Silvanose, C. D.; Jibin. V. G. Role of Malassezia furfur and M. globosain Dandruff and Seborrheic Dermatitis. J. Clin. Investigat. Dermatol. 2023, 11 (1), 2. DOI:10.13188/2373-1044.1000082
  8. Grimshaw, S. G.; Smith, A. M.; Arnold D. S. et al. The Diversity and Abundance of Fungi and Bacteria on the Healthy and Dandruff Affected Human Scalp. PLoS One 2019, 14 (12), e0225796. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0225796
  9. Korassa,Y. B.; Saptarini, N. M.; Mustarichie, R. et al. Antifungal Activity of Moringa (Moringa Oleifera Lamk.) Seed Oil from East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia, Against Malassezia furfurcauses Seborrheic Dermatitis. J. Hunan Univ. Nat. Sci. 2023, 50 (5), 11-20. DOI: 10.55463/issn.1674-2974.50.5.2
  10. Kumari, K. U.; Yadav, N. P.; Luqman, S. Promising Essential Oils/Plant Extracts in the Prevention and Treatment of Dandruff Pathogenesis. Curr. Top Med. Chem. 2022, 22 (13), 1104-1133. DOI: 10.2174/1568026622666220531120226
  11. Widaty, S.; Surachmiati, L.; Legiawati, L, et al. Scalp Microbiome of Healthy Women Wearing Hijab Compared to Those Not Wearing Hijab: A Cross-Sectional Study. Sci. Rep. 2023, 13 (1), 11797 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-023-38903-2
  12. Une, V. R.; Bondarde, M. P.; Some S. Formulation and Development of Water-Based Fragrance from Patchouli Essential Oils using Nonionic Surfactant. Appl. Nanosci. 2022, 12 (7), 2117-2125. DOI: 10.1007/s13204-022-02489-4
  13. Deng, W.; Li, M.; Liu, S, et al. Repellent Screening of Selected Plant Essential Oils Against Dengue Fever Mosquitoes Using Behavior Bioassays. Neotrop. Entomol. 2023, 52 (3), 521-529. DOI: 10.1007/s13744-023-01039-z
  14. Nurjanah, S.; Alhafidz, Z.; Maulani, M, et al. Alpha-Guaiene Isolated from Patchouli Oil Exhibits Antifungal Activity Against Four Pathogenic Fungi. F1000Res 2025, 14, 4. DOI:10.12688/f1000research.154021.1
  15. Zulu, L.; Gao, H.; Zhu, Y. et al. Antifungal Effects of Seven Plant Essential Oils Against Penicillium digitatum. Chem. Biol. Technol. Agric. 2023,10 (1), 82. DOI: 10.1186/s40538-023-00434-3

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